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(Model.) n 3 Shea-13s Sheet W. DUCHEMIN.

PLAITING MACHINE.

Patented Nov. 20.1883.

l/linesses:

Inventor:

N. Ptrins Phawuuwgmplwn wanhingwn. 0.0.

(Model.) 3 sheetssheet 2.

- W. DUGHBMIN. 1

PLAITING MACHINE.

Patented Nov. 20, 1883-.

v i @v v 11159.10. 5, s` hay Y n bly t h* f @f 3 sheets-snm 3.-

(Model.) v I 'l 8 l W. DUCHEMIN.

\ PLAITING MACHINE. 4 No. 288,929. y l A Patented NONLZO, 1883.'

NITE-D STATES" PATENT YVILLIAM DUO-HEMIN, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTASSIGNOB TO VILLIAM S. BUTLER, OF SAME PLACE.`

PLAlTiNG-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 288,929, dated November 20, 18.83.

n. Application iiled July Q0, 1883.

'To (di whom. it 11mg concern.-

Be it known that I, VILLIAM DUOHEMIN, a subject of Her Britannie Majesty, residing at Boston, in the county of Suffolk and Sta-te of Massachusetts. have invented a new and useful Plaiting-liachine, of which the following is a specification.

The object of my invention is to provide an automatic pla-iting-maehine which will make and sew simultaneously at any desired, point between the marginal edges of the material employed either square ordiagonal side or box plaits in any conceivable form or variety, with or `without staying or cording. The mechanism by which I attain these results is shown in the accompanying drawings, in whicham Figure 1 is a front elevation ofthe machine, showing the device as tted for box-plaiting. Fig. 2 is an inverted sectional plan of the table B B, showing the plaitingcarriage and Fig. 3 is a secl driving mechanism for same.

` tional plan, showing feedbam and connecting-arm. 4 isa Vertical section on line :v a", Fig. 1, showing plaiting-carriage and its driving-pawls and ratchet, feed-jaws, and

fildingngers. Fig. 5 is a vertical section on line y y, Fig. 1, showing folding-cam, ratchet,

pawls, and plaiting-cam. Fig. 6 is an invert-l ed plan of jaws, showing their mode of construction. Fig. 7 is asection of driving-shaft C, for reference. Fig. 8 is a vertical section of ratchet and foldingeam,,showing the manner of securing the same. are modified forms of folding-cams. Fig. 12 is a sectional plan of machine as vfitted for knife or side plaiting. Fig. 13 is an inverted plan of the stationary guide, showing its construction. Fig. 14 is a vertical section of the saine. Fig. 15 is a View similar to Fig. 5, With'working-pawl disengaged in readiness for knife-plaiting. Fig. 16 is a bottom plan of driving-pawls of plaiting-carriage out of gear.

Fig. 17 is aside elevation of the same.

The saine letters `indicate similar parts throughout the several views, and in referring to them the words outward, inward, frontj realy &e., are used with referi ence to the position as referred to, Fig. 1, whatever maybe the appa-rent direction in special views.

Figs. 9, 10, `and 11H.

(Model The sewing mechanism shown in the drawings is similar to the W'illcox i Gibbs machine, but differs therefrom in some of the most essential details, as will be hereinafter shown.

The plaiting mechanism is constructed as follows: A A, Fig. 1 represent the frame of the machine, to which is secured the table B B, and in which, in suitable bearings, the 6o driving-shaft C revolves. On the outer end of C is a fly-wheel, D, and eccentric E, which, by means of the connecting-rod F, give the required motion to the needle-arm G. The inner end of C terminates in an eccentric, a., Fig. 7, the extreme end being provided with a central perforation, ax, for the reception of the looper c, Figs. 1, 2, and 4. A feed-bar,

b, is secured to the frame A, Fig. 2, by the screw-bolt bX in .such a manner that it can be 7o sent back (by the action of a spiral spring, Zi', placed in its interior) and forward (by means of an'independent cam, n?) iu one-sixth of a revolution of the drivingshaft C. This feedbar b has near its front end an oblong longitudinal slot, b2, Fig. 4, which passes over the eccentric a, Fig. 7, and at its extreme front end, which terminates in a flat plate, is a similar slot, b4, by means of which the plaiting mechanism receives its impetus.

Pivoted to a hanger, c, which is secured to the under surface ofth e table B B, is a iiat plate, c', on the upper rear side of which is a pin, el, which enters the slot Zr, Fig. 7. At the lower front side of c', in perpendicular line with its 85 pivot, is a similar pin, c, which passes through a perpendicular slot, et, Fig. 4, in a lever, c5, pivoted to the lower end of the hanger c on the opposite side, and to the upper end of this le- Vver o5 is fastened the driving-pawl c of arack, 9o

(ZX, secured to the under surface of the carriage d. Against this rack the outer end of said pawl is held by a spiral spring, ci. (See Figs. 1, 2, and 4.) The carriage d, Fig. 2, is secured to the under surface of the table B B by means of the hat bearings d d', Figs. 2 and 4, in such a manner that itcan be sent inward the length of one tooth of the rack dX at each revolution of the shaft C, and outward in one-quarter of such revolution by the lever The front end Ice of carriage d is provided with a set-screw, d4,

by means of which the different devices needed for the varied qualities of the material used are secured to the carriage d, as hereinafter set forth. On the rear end, secured in position by a thumb-screw, d5, Figs. 3 and 12, is a stopgage, d, on the upper surface of which is a latch-clutch, di, which curves over the sideof the stop-gage and enters a notch, ai, on the edge of the carriage d, Fig. 4, for the purpose of retaining the gage in any position to which it is adjusted. On the lower surface of d is a downwardly-projecting stud, di, which descends through a slot in the carriage d, (shown in dotted lines,) and against which rests the.

inner end of the lever di.

In close proximity to the rear bearing, d, of

the carriage d, pivoted to a lug proceeding therefrom, is a tripper, d, Figs. 2, 8, and 4, which has at its eXtreme rear end an arm, e', which passes between the carriage d and the connecting-bar of the bearings d d', and in the rear of the tripping-stud e upon carriage gd, Fig. 2, the inner marginal edge of the front end of d" terminates in an inclined plane, c, Fig. 2, which at the proper time presses down a pawl, eX, Fig. 4, clear of the rack (ZX. This pawl leX is pivoted to the under surface of the front bearing, cl', Fig. 4, and is retained 'in position by the spring e3, and is provided at its inner end with a projecting finger, e, inclined upward at right angles. The lever d, Fig. 2, is pivoted to the under surface of the table B B, its inner end bearing against a projecting stud, di, as before stated, while on its outer end, secured by a similar joint, is the divided lever-bar c, the inner arm of which extends over and beyond the shaft -C and rests in the latch el, while its outer arm terminates about midway in a transverse face, a", of such proportion that when the carriage d is brought in the full length of its reach the face a will pass freely into the throat of the plaitin'g-cain ci on t-he shaft C. The latch e7 ispivotcd to the side of the frame A, and is kept in position by a side spring, es.

On the front side of the under surface ofthe table B B, at right angles with the carriage d, and secured by a working-bearing in the upper surface of the hanger c, is the shaft ofa releasing-arm, e, each end of which 'terminates in an arm at right angles to the shaft. The outer and longer arm rests on the upper side of the latch el, Fig. 2, while the short arm curves upward, as shown Vat b, sufficiently to prevent the arm from coming in contact wi-th the spur 0X on the side -of the carriage (Z'until the'carriage has made its ho-me reach, when the yarm, by the action of the spur cx, issent down, and the long arm, pressing on thclatch e7 and depressing it, releases the divided lever bar ues, which, by the action of the side spring,l

f, is then driven outward in position -to be acted on by the working-surface of the cani e5. The carriage el being in theposition shown in Fig. 2, the operation is as follows: As the shaft C revolves the eccentric a pressesagainstthe lower surface of the longitudinal `slot b2 in the feed-bar b and pushes it downward, thus imparting, by means of the pin c2 and slot b", a forward motion to the arm c, which acts on the lever c5 and sends the workingpawl c forward at an increased ratio compared with the feed, (see Fig. 4,) and brings the carriage d inward the length of one tooth of the rack (ZX, where itis held by the action of the pawl cx. This is continued until the tripping-pin e in the carriage d comes in contact with the arm e and forces the inclined plane e2 of the tripper d under the finger eA1 of the pawl eX, thereby pressing it clear of the rack (ZX, and when the working-pawl c makes its inward reach, its end, coming in contact with the end of the pawl eX, is also pressed out of the rack, as shown in Figs. 16 and 17, and the carriage d is freed from the actionof the pawls, and so remains for one-third of a revolution of the shaft C. In this time the lever-bar e, being released from the latch el, is driven out, and the face er, coming in contact with the working-surface of the cam e5, is, by its action, sent back, and the inner end ofthe lever d forward, and, pressing against the stud ds, sends the carriage d outward until the front end of the stop-gage d, striking against the outer end of the sliding bar a7 in the bearing d', sends it inward against the arm e and forces the tripper from under the finger e4 of the pawl eX, which is again brought into working position yby the action of the spring c3, and the front end of the lever-bar e is forced into the latch el by the 'action of the inclined plane a, Figs. 2 and 5, on the cam The function of the stopgag'e d is to limit the rearward reach of the carriage d, which it doesinthis manner: There are as many notches a*i on the side ofthe carriage d as there are teeth in the rack dx, the spaces between the -notches being equal to the spaces between the points vof the teeth. Thus, when the latch `dT is in the first notch in the rear end ofthe carriage d, it will make the longest reach,

and the plaits will each have as manystitches as there were teeth sent rearward in making them. In this manner the operator can produce as many differently-proportioned plaits as there are teeth in the rack d?, which may be as many as vfifty or more, if desired.

On the front side of the frame A A isa bracket, si, having a horizontal shaft, f, Fig. 5, on which the ratchet-wheel f2 and foldingcam f4, Fig. 8, are made to revolve by the action of the pawl fl, the rear end of which is secured in a hanger, f5, Fig. 5, on the shaft s, Fig. 3, by passing through a slot, SX, in the lower side of said hanger, made in such proportion that it will permit the pawl fl to move back and forth and up and down freely, but will prevent all lateral motion. Its front end terminates ina hook, ff). Its rear end is ,provided with a stud, s. About midway it is bent Iin the form of a compound right angle, which lleaves a perpendicular face, s2, for the action of the projecting stud g in the cam e5, Fig. 5.

Pivoted to the under surface of an extension IOO IIO

of the hanger f3 is a small clutch, gx, which interlocks the stud g in the pawl fl, in which position it is retained by the spring g2, Fig. 3, and is provided with an arm, g, which reaches beyond the edge 4of the pawl fl. The top of the bracket s, Fig. 3, terminates in a vertical face, to which is pivotcd the lever g", the under surface of which rests on the periphery of the folding-cam. ft, while its outer end terminates in the arms a4 55, Fig. 1, to the extreme end of which are secured, at right angles therewith, the folding-fingers g7 gs, Fig. 4. The lower arm, plays on a pivot on the lever, and its action is limited by studs g5 g, Fig. 1, in such proportion that when the arms s* .95 are closed there will be space sufficient between the folding-fingers gT g3 to let the material pass without contact, and when open to bring the lower folder in the required position to guide the fold forming. the plait in the desired direction. The folding-fingers gT g8 incline rearward gradually toward each other, and are iiexible. The folding-lever g4 is kept in contact with the cam f* by the pressure of the spring g. The cam j* is held in position by means of the boss f and steadying-pin f5 of the ratchet-wlieelft, Fig. 8, and all back motion of the ratchet-wheel is prevented by the pawl f, Fig. l. Near' the outer end of the shaft s is a circular block, Zr, Fig. 3, in which the spring e is secured, its inner end pressing against the stud si in the rear end of the pawl f7. v

ln practice the operation of this combination is as follows: Eli/'hen the lever e is released from the latch. c", Fig. 3, and is driven laterally outward, as described, 'its outer marginal edge comes in contact with the arm g of the clutch gx, and, forcing the clutch backward, releases the pin g', and the pawl f7 is sent forward by the action ofthe springs6 and latches into the next tooth of ratchetj'g, in which position it is held by the spring 3T until the projecting stud g, Fig. 5, of the cam c5, pressing against the perpendicular surface s?, sends j'T back and brings the ratchetwheelj'2 one tooth in advance.

This device is for boXplaiting, the plaits being reversed as follows: The ratchet-wheelf having twelve teeth, the folding-cani f* is divided into twelve parts, aud each alternate part projects, thev intermediate depressions being formed by equally inolining curved planes, as shown at j, Fig. l5. Thus as each tooth of the ratchet-wheel is brought forward the arms of the lever g* are elevated or depressed, as subjected to the act-ion of the cam f* or spring gi. W'hen elevated, the extreme end of the folding-finger si projects above the level of the needle-plate c* and the plait is formed over the feeding-jaws. then depressed, the end or the finger s projects below the level of the needle-plate, and the plait is formed under the feeding-jaws, and so on alternately.` This process forms regulaivboX-plaiting. If a double box-plait is required, the projections and depressions on .the cam j must be equal to the length of two teeth of the ratchet-wheel f2, Fig. 1l. If a treble box-plait, the projections and depressions must be equal to the length of three teeth, Fig. l0, and so on to any practical amount. These changes, however, constitute but one class, for afolding-'cam having a projection and depression equal to the length of one tooth and the next pair equal to the length oi' two teeth will give a single and a double box-plait alternately, thus changing the order of the plaits when made. ln fact, there is no variety of this kind of plait that cannot be made by a change in the folding-cam; but it must be remembered that the teeth must be even numbers for even changes and odd for irregular chan ges. Thus a ratchetwheel having eleven teeth will give two double and one single box-plait alternately, and so 011 in any variety. I have here given the smallest number of teeth. They may, however, be increased to any reasonable number, and of course the; greater the number of teeth the greater variety of changes that can be made.

The feeding-jaws are constructed as follows: The plate hx, Figs. 3, 4, and G, of the lower jaw is composed of thin unyielding metal, and wide enough to feed in the widest material used, and of any desirablep rop ortionatelen gth. On its under surface is an immovable cross-bar, h', Fig. 6, in the center of which, on the front side, is a transverse dovetailed slot, (shown by dotted lines,`) in which the rear end of the goose-neck h2 is tted in such a manner that it can be pressed in or out smoothly for the purpose of adjusting the outer edge to suit the needle. Xear its front end is a sl ot, h3, through which a screw that is threaded in a corresponding position in the .gooseneck hij passes, and when .the jaws are adjusted holds them in position. The plate h* forming the upper jaw is composed of thin elastic metal, and is provided with two transverse slots, 71.5 It, o f such proportion as will permit the material to pass smoothly through. About midway between the slots on the under surface is a cross-bar, hg, having a circular .perforation at each end, through which pass the set-screws w tw, which are threaded in corresponding positions in the cross-bar if, fastened t0 the under jaw, hX. Its under surface inclines upward from the front in such proportion that when the set-screws are tightened the lips of the jaws will be pressed closelyv together. (See Fig. 4.) These set-` screws, by being set tight or loose, graduate the pressure for light or heavy materi al. The length of the plate h* must be such as will prevent the material from coming-in contact with the carriage cl. For the purpose oi' strength, the width must be such as will leave a marginal edge onequarter of an inch beyond the ends ofthe slots. The slot hf in the rear edge of the jaws is designed to permit the passage up and down of a needle which carries the thread to sew the plaits into permanent shape as they are formed by the folding devices. In the drawings this slot is 'placed in the center of the rear edge of the jaws, and when in that position the seam ICO will obviously be in the center of the plait 5 but the plaiting may be done equally well, if desired, with a greater part of the jaws to the right or left of the needle, in which case the slot h", though directly under the needle, is not in the center of the rear edge of the jaws, but a proportionate distan ce from it. This is most readily effected by having a set of interchangeable jaws any of which will iit on the carriage d, as described, but with the slot 7i" in different positions relatively to the width of the jaws 5 and in the same way for diagonal plaiting, jaws are provided whose rear edges incline more or less from the horizontal, as shown in dotted lines in Figs. 8 and G. In adjusting the jaws the rear edges must pass the space ofone stitch to the rear of the needle, the slot It being set in such a position that the needle will pass in and out without touching either side. For knife or side plaiting with the j aws hX 7i, the cam f 'L must be aplain smooth circle which will keep the under folding-iinger, S5, in the proper position to insure the turn ofthe plait in the proper direction. For knife or side plaiting material too delicate to be drawn through the jaws hX h, or that'which is embroidered or has uneven edges, the working-pawlj"7 must be thrown out of gear and the jaws hX h* and folding-lever gIl removed, as shown in Fig. 15, and a device constructed as follows substituted. On the right-angular ends or projections of the cross-bar fi, Fig. 12, which is fitted to the front end of the carriage'd, secured thereto by set-screws, are the arms X i', whose rear ends terminate in circular bearings. At the front end, on the outer side of the arm i", is a small angular spur, i5, and about midway on the side is a projecting stud, i, the end surface of which is an inclined plane. The feeder i, Fig. 12, is made in such proportion that it will play freely between the raised edges of a stationary guide, i7, and is hung at its front marginal side on the pivots i2 i, which play in the circular bearings spoken of as being in the rear ends of the arms X t. Projecting from its inner side, near the pivot, is a fiat plate, is, which curves slightly downward at its outer end. rlhe stationary guide il, Fig. 12, is rmly secured to the table B B by screws passing through side lugs, a u, Fig. 12, and is made wide enough to permit the widest material used to pass freely between its marginal edges ax ax, which incline upward at right angles, Fig. 14. Its rear end passes the length of a stitch beyond the needle, and is provided with a rectangular aperture, as, of such proportion that the side edges of the needle-'plate a* will iit snugly against the sides and leave a space, ci', Fig. 12, in front of the needle-plate (6*, and the front end of 'il projects beyond the table B sufficiently to prevent the material from coming in contact with the carriage (l. Just in front of the aperture o8 is a transverse slot, through which a spring-folder, a2, projects sufficiently to insure the folding of the material in the required direction. On its under surface,

lengthwise, is a rectangulargroove, a3, Fig. 13,

in the center of which is a circular groove, n". The groove agis intended to guide a fiat under stay to be sewed to the material being plaited when required, and the `groove n4 is to guide a cord for the same purpose. Close to and in line with the arm 11X is a straight flat bar, m, Fig. 12, swinging on the pivot m, which secures it to the bed-plate B. At its free end, on the under side, is the downward-proj ecting stud mx, and on the upper side is a raised block, m', extending rearward about midway to the pivot, and on the inner side is an angular groove, m2, which terminates at its edge in an upward-proj ecting lip. On the front end of m is a slide, mi, having at its outer end an inclined plane, m4, of a reversed angle to that of the stud i inthe arm iX, and is held in the required position by the set-screww.V The swing of the bar m is limited by the stop ml. The function of this bar m is to lift the gripping-edge of the feeder i* and prevent it from contact with the material during the outward reach of the carriage d. It operates as follows: the mechanism being in the position shown in Fig. 12: At the finish of the home reach of the carriage d, the spur i5, pressing against the stud mx, draws the bar m inward, and the inner side of the raised block m passes under the projecting plate i8, and as the feeder i is again. carried outward the curve on the end of is enters the angular groove fmt., and, being raised thereby, lifts the gripping-lip of the feeder i* and holds it up during the outward reach of the carriage d until the inclined plane of the stud i, coming in contact with the inclined plane mL on the slide m3, forces the bar m outward, whereupon the end of the projecting plate is falls in the notch m8, releasing the feeder i, which is brought down on the material bythe pressure of the spring-arms f), which give the necessary pressure to feed in the material.

It will be readily seen that with this device two or three thicknesses of material may beintcrplaited, from the fact that the feeder, not being in contact with themateri al exceptwhen under pressure, cannot disarrange the material, and as the pressure is used exclusively for feeding the material in, and can therefore be much heavier than the pressure on the jaws hx h, (before described,) which on their outward reach measure the plait, sufficient pressure can be put on thisfeeder i to retain two or more thicknesses in position and deliver them accurately to the sewing mechanism.

By cutting an aperture inthis device to correspond with the aperture o in the table B B, Figs. 2 and 3, and supplying the feeder i* with a sliding under jaw, it will, with the aid of the mechanism already described for th at purpose, boX-plait as readily as the jaws hX it". I prefer, however, to use the device, as shown, for the work named. For plaiting wide material, the side plates, 0X, Fig. 12, are placed at each side of the needle-plate a* and a proportionate presser-foot used. For narrow material the side plates, o', are removed, as shown in Fig. 3, and a narrow presser-foot used.

IOO

IIO

For side plaiting narrow material, proportionate guides p are used, and are secured in position in the guide il by means of a steadyin g-pin, a5, passing into an orifice in said guide, and an underlapping spring-leaf, a, as shown in Fig. 14. For boX-plaiting said narrow maerial with the jaws hx 71.", the upper jaw, 71.*, is removed and a proportionate j aw substituted.

On the needle-plate ai, extending downward in its front end, is a V-shaped groove, of, Fig. 3, the vertex of which is in line with the needle. Through this groove nf the under cording is ledrin position to be sewed to the materia-l. A circular groove may be used for this purpose; but the V shape is preferable to all others, because, as `the sides are equal, large or small cord will be delivered under the needle with equal precision, and insure the stitch being in the center of the cord.

To operate with the entire device If for box-plaiting, the carriage l is drawn out the full length of its outward reach, and the lever g* rests on a projection of the folding-cam f", Fig. 1. The material is passed up through the slot h6 in the upper jaw, h4, down through the slot h5, and out between the jaws hX h5 and under the presser-foot. The machine is then set in motion, and will take care of itself, all that the operator has to do being to see that no accident happens, and that the supply of material is continuous. If for side plaiting, the pawl fl is thrown out of gear and the lever g* removed, as before described, and the carriage placed in the position shown in Fig. 12. The material is passed under the feeder i" and the presser-foot and the machineA set in motion, as before. If an under stay is required, the stay is passed through the groove a in the bottom of the guide il, the aperture c in front of the needle-plate a4, and thence under the presser-foot. If an under cord also is required, it is passed through the groove infin. the guide i7, the V-shaped groove nin the front end of the needleplate (0*, and under the presser-foot. The sewing of the machineis timed so that the needle will enter the plait `just before the carriage starts on its outward reach, and willnot come out again till that reach is nished. To accomplish this it is necessary to time the sewing apparatus twentyiive per cent. quicker than the regular time used in the "Willcox & Gibbs machine, before mentioned, and make the' feeding device accord with it.

I claim- 1. An automatic plaiting-machine provided with the vinterchangeable feeding-jaws hX if, the carriage d, for carrying said jaws back and forth under the action oi' its driving mechanism, and the folding fingers s* 85, with their operating mechanism, in combination with a reciprocating needle and its operating mechanism, for sewing the plaits when formed by said jaws and fingers, as herein described and shown.

2. An automatic plaiting-machine provided with a series of interchangeable cams and their operating mechanism, in combination with a pair of folding-fingers to act upon the material to be folded, and thus determine the character of the plaits produced, as hereinbefore described.

3. In an automatic plaiting-machine, the feeder rl, with its driving mechanism, the stationarj,r guide il, and folder n?, in combination with the swingingbar m and operating devices, as herein described, and for the purposes specied.

4. The combination of the stop-gage dlatehclutch di, stud d, and carriage d, with their operating mechanism, as herein shown and described.

5. In an automatic plaiting-machine, the stationary guide il, provided with upright edges ax ax, the aperture cs, and with the rectangular groove as and circular groove a* upon its under side, as and for the purposes specified.

WILLM. DUCHEMIN.

Vitnesses:

W. P. PREBLE, Jr., XVM. S. RoeERs. 

